Assuming ownership of a longtime college hangout sounds like a tricky proposition, especially if youâre just barely out of college yourself. Yet Mark Heinritz, his brothers Chris and Jim, and their friend Cameron Stainton â all in their mid-20s in 1992 â felt up to the challenge of running The Sink, the venerable Hill institution just steps from the CU campus.
âGrowing up in Connecticut, we appreciated history, and we understood The Sinkâs role in Boulder,â he said. âThough it wasnât until we were meeting people every day, whom it meant so much to, that we knew we could be stewards, taking care of the millions of memories that live here.â
The Sink is Boulderâs oldest restaurant, celebrating 100 years in 2023. After 30 years, Heinritz and his partners are forever part of its history, making their own mark on it while also tracing the footsteps of the many owners who came before them.
Growing Up with The SinkÂ
I was singing the CU fight song before I was singing nursery rhymes.
Caryl Segawa (A&Sâ67) will always cherish her memories of The Sink. She grew up there â literally, since she was only four when her parents, John and Pauli Pudlik, bought the place in 1949. For years, sheâd walk there after school, chow down on her favorite grilled cheese, then maybe take a nap under the desk in the office.
Just as Sink regulars were known as âSink Rats,â she was the âSink Brat,â and it wasnât until years later that she realized how lucky sheâd been to experience such a unique childhood.Â
âI was singing the CU fight song before I was singing nursery rhymes,â said Segawa, whose father and Uncle Ed played football at CU in the â30s and â40s. âAnd all those students looking out for me ⊠It was heaven for a little girl.â
Kevin Fitzgeraldâs (EPOBioâ73; MBioâ78; PhDâ82) Sink experience was just as unique â and it began on just his second day at CU, in 1969.
âI was approached and asked if I wanted to be a bouncer,â he said. âI was told Iâd get $1.69 an hour and a free burger each shift, and that Iâd meet more girls than Frank Sinatra.â
The Hill was a âtruly magical placeâ at the time, he said, and The Sink drew a mixed crowd of fraternity and sorority members and âlong-haired hippies,â all taking advantage of the nickel-beer specials and 35-cent burgers.
âWe had political things going on, like Vietnam and Nixon, and all these social issues, like womenâs rights,â he said.Â
Somerâs Sunken GardensÂ
It was amazing to finally get to go in after hours and see the remnants of a life that was so mysterious to me.
The Sink opened in 1923 as Somerâs Sunken Gardens, in the former Sigma Nu fraternity house. Named for the sunken fountain in the middle of the dining room â from which diners could apparently choose their own trout for dinner â it was nicknamed âThe Sink.â After the Pudliks took over, they decided the nickname should be the official name instead. Then they made another very important change: Though Boulder was still âdryâ at the time, 3.2 beer wasnât considered to be alcohol. So the Pudliks began pouring brews â and the students came pouring in, too.
In 1956, they sold the business to Joe Beimford and Floyd Marks. In 1960, Herbie and Gilda Kauvar â Marksâ sister â took over the business, and kept the menu, which featured the now-famous Sink Burger and its signature hickory Sink Sauce.Â
What Rick Kauvar (EPOBioâ75) remembers most about those early days when his parents took over the business was that the beer sales made it an 18-and-older establishment.Â
âI was eight, and I had to sit out in the car and watch all the college kids going in and out all those years,â he said. âIt was amazing to finally get to go in after hours and see the remnants of a life that was so mysterious to me.âÂ
Once they were old enough, Kauver and his brother Jim (Mktgâ79) spent afternoons and evenings working there, which Jim said heâll always remember as âan important part of our familyâs history.â
Upon taking over the restaurant, Herbie and Gilda hired artist Llloyd Kavich (who also redid the walls in 1989) to redo some of the classic, circa-1950s artwork with an âage of Aquariusâ theme. Most importantly, they continued fostering an atmosphere of community and a place for students to gather, with nonstop music blaring from the jukebox.Â
âOnly happy songs were allowed,â said Fitzgerald.Â
In the mid-â70s, though, the bubble burst. The Hill, a hub of âflower powerâ counterculture activity in Boulder, began drawing people interested in living alternative lifestyles. New businesses opened up to cater to their needs and wants, offering things like vintage clothes, bell bottoms, leather vests and incense.
âIt made it impossible for students to really keep enjoying The Sink the way they had for all those years,â said Rick. âMy dad had to make a change or he would have lost it completely.â
Alongside the neighborhood changes, business began to decline as shoppers gravitated toward the new stores and new types of restaurants. As sales lagged at The Sink, Herbie switched tactics and opened Herbieâs Deli with faster counter service and sandwiches. He kept the Sink Burger on the menu, but covered up the iconic art with pine boards. He thought The Sink would be forever forgotten, but he was wrong. For years, Rick and Jim urged their dad to bring it back, and much to the delight of Sink Rats everywhere (including Fitzgerald), they finally did in 1989, uncovering the artwork and adding a full bar.Â
The Sink TodayÂ
When we bought it, he said to me, âYouâd have to be a real idiot to screw this up.â
Though Heinritz admits they had âa lot to work with,â theyâve also made a few changes in the past 30 years.
âWe kept the menu we inherited and let it morph over time, like adding ugly crust pizza, formulated in my own kitchen,â he said. They also introduced the now-famous Buddha Basil Pie â famous enough, in fact, to attract the likes of from Diners, Drive-ins and Dives (2010), (2012) and Anthony Bourdain (2013), all of whom signed the classic âwall of fame.â Thereâs also Robert Redford (A&S exâ58; HonDocHumâ87), The Sinkâs most famous employee, who worked there as a janitor in 1955. He makes sure to visit whenever heâs in town and was even put to work once.
Though The Sink hasnât changed much visually over the years, it has a decidedly different vibe today than in the â70s. It used to come to life at 10 p.m. â now thatâs closing time, and itâs not the same type of crowd.
âAs Boulder evolved away from being a party school and liquor laws tightened, we started leaning into the culinary side of it, wanting to build a reputation built around food and community,â explained Heinritz.
Still, the restaurantâs connections to CU remain unbreakable. âWe get students and faculty coming in before and after football games, during the Conference on World Affairs and other big events.â Heinritz said. âBut we also see business people and young families. When I meet someone who has never been in, who thinks theyâre too old, I say, âJust come in and give it a try,â and theyâre always surprised.â
As for the Heinritz brothersâ success in keeping The Sinkâs legacy alive, Mark Heinritz gives some of the credit to Herbie.Â
âWhen we bought it, he said to me, âYouâd have to be a real idiot to screw this up.â That became our guiding light.â
Photos courtesy The Sink; Yellow Scene Magazine (pizza, bottom middle)